With three weeks left, we’ve just
arrived home from the greatest adventure yet: excursion. We started off flying
to Johannesburg and there, we went to several museusm and visited Soweto. Then on
Friday morning, we left (very early, I might add) for Kruger National Park to
see the Big Five. Johannesburg is quite a city, very much like New York around
Central Park. This is the dream city, the place of opportunity and gold and I
have seen now lived to see a large part of it. We visited the Hector Peiterson
Museum, the Apartheid Museum, Constiution Hill, and the Sharpville Memorial Museum.
While all of the museums were amazing, my favorites were the Apartheid Museum,
which is absolutely stunning, and a must-see before you die, and the Hector
Peiterson Museum. Since the Apartheid Museum is essentially self-explanatory in
the name, I should explain the Hector Peiterson Museum.
In late 1976, with
apartheid in full swing, a new law had passed mandating that subjects in school
were to be taught in Afrikaans. Afrikaans was not only restricted to white, but
to classified coloured as well as native language. This law, under the Bantu
Education Acts, would mainly effect black students who speak Xhosa, English,
Zulu, Sutu, etc, but not Afrikaans. In Soweto, students were outraged. They
came together to protest this law, where if it went through any longer they
would fail school subjects and matric. On June 16th, between 10,000 and 20,000
black students gathered together to march in protest to Orlando Stadium in
Soweto. By the end of the day, the death toll neared 150 and the wounded
amounted to over a thousand. The apartheid police had open fired on the crowds
of unarmed students and the first of those students to die was a 14-year-old
boy named Hector Peiterson. There is the iconic picture showing Mbuyisa Makhubo
holding Hector’s body while his sister cries besides them. On that day,
hundreds of families were shattered in a barbaric manner with no reason from
the police. After that day, hundreds more died in uprisings all over South
Africa, where police would enter townships and open fire at random. This museum
told the story of that day and of apartheid during those years. I found this
museum to be so impactful because of the pictures, the stories and the videos
of the Soweto Uprising of 1979. The videos play loudly as you watch and read
the testimonies of that day from the police and of the students. It paints a
horrifyingly real picture that screams, “Yes, this actually happened and we
were never the same”. When you walk out of the museum, there is a fountain with
rocks and on of those rocks, a little ways away from the fountain, is a quote
from Mbuyisa Makhubo’s mother (the boy pictured with Hector Peiterson). She
says her son, who disappeared after that day and has not been seen or heard
from since, is not a hero. She explains that as a brother, it was his duty to
carry Hector out of there. He could not have lived knowing he was left alone to
die. It’s amazing to see the range of ages and types of people who gave
up their lives in the struggle for freedom.
Kruger National Park was another
experience all together. I have been to zoos before and seen the Big Five in
real life before (the Bronx Zoo has had all of them at different points in the
past 20 years), but this was something completely different. It is one thing to
see an elephant behind glass and another to see a mother elephant and her
babies crossing the road less than 15 ft in front of you. The park does not
look like the scenery set up in the “Lion King”, unfortunately there was no
pride rock, but we did see a mother lion and her cubs relaxing in the grass on
a night game drive. While I am not entirely into animals as I am into
exhibits about people, it was well worth the 8-hour drive from Johannesburg to
mPumalanga.
This past weekend, a small group and
I went to Plettenberg Bay for a weekend vacation. After a7 hour drive for which
we left at 2:45 AM for, we arrived at Cango Wildlife Ranch. There, I got to pet
some cheetahs named Mia and Mini. The next day, I had an incredible experience
playing with elephants at Knysna Elephant Park. Elephants are the largest land
mammal and also one of the smartest. They are highly emotional and cognitively
sound creatures.
At Knysna, the elephants were hurt at one point and taken
there to recover, being fed and cared for by humans. The elephants eventually
remembered the feeders and the place felt they could open it up to the public
to have close encounters with these large and magnificent creatures. There are
currently 9 elephants and they have a huge acre of land to roam free and breed
on as they please. The Park serves as preservation center for elephants in the
area. The ones there are the only ones native to Knysna. You can walk with
elephants, feed them and interact with them and you also have the option to
ride them. I unfortunately did not ride, as my other co-educators did, but
being able to hug, kiss, feed, and walk with the elephants was more than enough
for me. I had a long interaction with one of them, Sally, the largest female. I
looked into her large, bight brown eyes and you can actually see someone
staring back at you. I understood her and she understood me. She stared for a
bit and let me pet her, nudging me softly from time to time. The elephants of
South Africa were poached ferociously when the English-speakers arrived. The
Knysna heard was nearly extinct (out of thousands, only 3 remained at the start
of Knysna Elephant Park in 1994). They were killed off, sold, forced to move as
a means of “being saved” and stood by while their homes were destroyed. Their
story reminds me of the people of South Africa. Why does it seem that humans
destroy everything they touch? If not to look at other human beings who have
had their basic human rights stripped from them by other people, look to
nature. We come and conquer. There is no stone that is to remain unturned, no
life unscathed. We cage and abuse animals because they do not have the voice to
protest or the rights to protect them the ay humans are protected. And yet,
humans become objects to also be mistreated. As I look at the vast expanse of
land ahead of me on the way back to Loch from Plettenberg, I think about the
race of humanity. We are all racing against time and each other but in the end
we all come back to the same place. We all come back to where it all started:
in Africa’s old and wise soil.
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