I lay covered in sores and bug-bites
yet to become sores, choking on a cloud of useless repellent, sneezing,
coughing, my back trembling and contorting, a mute horror show. I have not
spoken to my family or friends in weeks. I have not had time to make time for
myself. I am told to wait. I am told to appreciate the distance. I am told that
so many have it much worse, that complaining is empty and meaningless. I am
selfish, spoiled, fussy American. I am in truth, not pain. Live it. Suffer. You
have earned it.
That I would calls these woes is
evidence of my privilage. That I would speak of them as awful and uncommon is
evidence of my privilage. That I would expect these things to be addressed with
more than a shrug is evidence of my privilage. This isn't about me. I am
unimportant. I am not genuine, but a receptacle for authentic experiences. I am
ungrateful. So many people would kill for the chance to “suffer” as I do. My
privilage hinders me from thinking of them first. That I would want to stop
itching and bleeding, that i would want not to be covered in sores, stinging as
sweat runs into them, itching constantly, marauded by insects – that is my
privilege, nothing more.
I would not feel so if only I'd
change my perspective. I choose to hurt. I choose to suffer. It is an illusion.
I am lost to myself, a stranger in
my own skin.
Much of this trip is performed on
the rails. It feels like an adventure, but it is farce, a carnival ride. We are
going in the only direction we are allowed to go. Because it is “safe”. Because
they've done this before and we haven't. Because shut up and let us dazzle you
with wonder and splendor! Let us do our jobs! And we are told:
* Look here!
* Don't look there!
* This is what this means!
* This is how you should feel!
* This is how you talk!
* This is their way!
* See how much better this is
than yours?
* See how awful your home is?
* Don't you wish you were more
like they are?
We are rendered cold and mundane, by
contrast less beautiful, less storied, less cultured, less genuine. We, the fat
and faceless consumer clan descend with empty open hearts and learn to love
anew, to see beyond the price tags and buffets, to experience authentic
meaning, not like back home, not like back there.
And we, the obedient children from
the Land of Plenty, deign to tell them how moved and touched and shaken and
stirred we are by all we see and hear. And aren't we so grateful? Aren't we so
very profoundly blessed by this experience?
And they, immune to the majesty yet
held fast by the same, struggle against their splendid nets and ask what New
York is like. They ask about our cars, our food, our neighborhoods.
And we, newly disabused of our love
and pride, cast our eyes aside saying only, “It's not like THIS,” our eyes
wide, glistening like sinister peaches.
These are the things we don't say,
you don't say, I don't say; too much, too fast, too long, too strange, too
uncomfortable, too unusual, too awkward, too hot, too offensive, to demanding,
too far – the tacit agreement being that critique and complaint are tantamount
to intolerance and ingratitude. So we swallow our soft daggers and call it
tolerance, beautiful, open-mindedness. We surrender to the schedule, the rigid
definitions and expectations laid out before us like roads and bridges, delivering
us to rare and exquisite truths.
Or something.
In many ways, expectations are the
enemy of enlightenment. I find myself living out other people's expectations,
other people's dreams and experiences. Everything is filtered. Everything is
preempted. Everything comes with caveats and instructions:
DO/DO NOT
* Find this beautiful
* Find this delicious
* Do this because it's fun
* Marvel at this
* Wonder at that
* Go here
* Dream this dream
* Pray this prayer
* Want this
* Need this
* Love this
* Experience THIS like THIS
It is a checklist void of humanity
yet feigning the same, a vivisected corpse of someone else's South African love
affair, insisting itself to life, bloodless, nameless, desperate for breath.
There is no reason, only a feeling, a
compulsion to act within certain boarders and boundaries. It is as rote and
moot as parents attempting to describe to their children what love is like.
Despite their good intentions, missing from their telling is the crucial
admission that their story is theirs and theirs alone, that their love is
unique to them, a magic that can only be conjured by them that only they will
ever share and experience.
It is that rarity that makes love
worth repeating, even after heartbreak, because it is never the same song
twice. It is why falling in love matters at all. An that truth is the key to
finding your own love in your own way.
But they leave this out, consciously
or unconsciously, determined to guide their children toward experiences like
their own – different, to be sure, grander maybe, but similar, an exaggerated,
elaborated version of the lives their parents have lived.
And this is how it is, only instead
of love stories, we have the story of a nation, of hundreds of millions over
several generations, paths weaving into, onto, around, and through one another,
a marvelously ancient and complex quilt, impossible to behold all at once.
The country breathes all around me,
a living thing. I lay my hand to the earth and breathe with it, the sand and
the sea made poetry by the setting sun, the hem of of the Atlantic lapping at
my ankles and toes. I am looking toward home and cannot fathom the
distance.
I want to know the way but cannot
say.
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